Apr 23
Today is one of the most important dates on the Catalan calendar, Sant Jordi or Saint George to the English, is also the patron saint of Catalonia. Tradition dictates that men buy women a rose while we men get a better deal by receiving a book.
So today the Rambla in Girona, just like everywhere else here in Catalonia, was packed with people looking at the stalls for the perfect rose and book for their loved ones.
It is a beautiful tradition and one which seems to be getting stronger as many school kids use the sale of roses and books to raise money for their end of term outings as well as for charity.
Mar 28
Taking advantage of a beautiful sunday afternoon with spring colours emerging inspired me to take these pictures:
Feb 25
Sant Feliu is a town of about 20,000 people situated on the most interesting part of the Costa Brava with small rocky coves and sandy beaches only 20 mins drive from Girona. It is the perfect place to head to for a gentle stroll along the wide promenade or to sit at one of the many cafes and restaurants savouring the fresh shellfish with views of beach and fishing port.
This has been a resort town ever since the railway arrived in 1890 and many wealthy families built their second homes here, some in the Modernist style that are still looking good today. The old Casino building on the promenade is a good example although slightly gaudy for my personal taste. Always look up when you walk around these towns as then you can spot some wonderful tilework, sometimes under the eaves of the roof, ornate balconies and interesting windows and balconies. So whether to sit on the beach or wander around the small shaded squares or the pedestrianised shopping area looking for select foods or boutiques, Sant Feliu has something for everyone.
Feb 17
Tucked in the folds of the Albera mountain range in a valley which is now part of the natural park, Sant Quirze is one of the oldest monasteries on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees. The remains of the original 9th century church were incorporated in the Romanesque basilica built in the10th and 11th centuries, and some frescoes are visible in the nave although in poor condition.
Since the monastery had been closed to the public for most of the last decade for restoration, I had high expectations. Unfortunately they were dashed by a combination of unfinished work and a lack of explanation on what had been one of the most important monasteries for some 500 years in the Middle Ages.
Its strategic location, on one of the main routes across the mountains into Spain, meant that it was regularly overrun by hungry Frenchsoldiers who were happy to take anything they could carry, especially if it was gold or silver. By the 16th century it was no more than a ruin and was ceded to one of the local farming families that used it to shelter their livestock.
The area is beautiful, if stark, and cows still wander the valley with bells around their necks. Small fast- running streams come down from the mountains which are covered in an almost impenetrable thick gorse. This is a great place for walking and cycling and there are numerous marked paths that lead here from the coast at Colera and continue inland to Rabós and Espolla as well as the Coll de Banyuls and France.
Feb 13
The days have warmed up considerably recently and while on a bike ride it was noticable how colour is returning to the countryside.
Almonds, cherries, plum and peach are all in flower now so there is a wonderful scent in the air as well as a visual treat when venturing into the country. Olive trees bared of fruit and the ground swept below their branches after their recent harvest, vines pruned and waiting for the new growth to begin, bees buzzing in the fruit trees, this all adds up to a time where spring is getting close.
Of course, not everything is perfect, bee populations are severely reduced, as elsewhere in the world, and there may be a few late frosts to stop the blossoms, and rain is always needed in this parched land, but overall there is no stopping nature taking its course and the growing cycle starting again.
Jan 19
Vic is a town some 65 kms from Girona. Now that the road connecting the two is being upgraded it only takes 40 mins and is well worth the visit.
The town is dominated by a large square, in the style of the Plaza Mayor of Madrid and Salamanca, Vic's is surrounded with impressive buildings dating back to when wealthy merchants built grand houses on the back of agricultural wealth created in the surrounding fertile valley.
Vic is famous for its pork products, especially the traditionally cured sausages. This is still an important sector and large employer locally.
The Old Town of Vic is a great place to wander around. Make sure you look up since many of the terraces, tiles under the roofs, and other architectural gems aren't visible at eye level.
After walking around, go back to the Plaza Mayor. Be sure to pick a table in the sunny part of the square to sit down, have a drink, and watch the locals talk, eat, and enjoy themselves in this beautiful spot.
Nov 30
The last few days have been full of tension here in
Catalonia as long awaited events have been resolved, one via the ballot box and the other on the sports field.
The first important event were the elections for the Generalitat, the autonomous government of Catalonia, which saw a noticeable swing to the right which may well be reflected more generally in Spain over the next 6 months as other regions hold their own elections. This change was accompanied by a high turnout (60%) and emphasized peoples desire for change after 7 years of a Socialist coalition and a confused "head in the sand" approach to the general crisis which has swept Catalonia as well as the rest of Spain.
The second event was not political per se, but sporting, the football (soccer) league game between Barcelona and Madrid held at the Camp Nou stadium in Barcelona with over 90,000 fervent spectators cheering their respective teams. This particular game is far more than a football game, having been elevated to a status akin to a direct battle between the Catalan people and their oppressors, the central government as represented by the Madrid team who tax and control them excessively, so the general feeling goes. In actual fact the result was an absolute domination by Barcelona with a convincing 5-0 annihilation, and a show of skills which were spine tingling to watch and led to much celebration here for hours afterwards.
My feeling is that these two events could spark a feeling of renewed self confidence within Catalonia which might just help get them through the economic problems they have been engulfed in over the last few years, certainly they surprised everyone with the results of these two events, not least themselves!
Nov 26
Romanyà is a tiny village perched at 400m with sweeping views over the valley of
Llagostera all the way to the
Costa Brava in the distance is dominated by several large medieval houses around a Xth century church.
This is worth stopping to look at if you have time but from here is where things get interesting if you follow the signs to the menhir which is a large granite stone standing in a pine forest some 5 mins walk from Romanyà. Keep going along the marked path, past the village cemetery and you enter an old cork oak forest full of gnarled trees and filtered light. Soon you approach a small hill with what looks like some rocks on it and as you get closer it starts to take shape. This is the Dolmen of "La Cova d'en Daina" a 2,000 BC megalithic burial chamber surrounded by a cromlach of smaller stones forming an 11m circle around it.
The size and location under some huge cork oaks and pine trees was breathtaking. It is a place to just sit and wonder about, imparting a feeling of tranquility, peace and reflexion. It reminded me of Stonehenge before people were excluded from approaching the stones and the setting is Mediterranean instead of bleak England which makes it even better!
Nov 22
It's time for another
World Press Photo exhibition which I saw in
London last week and is already here in
Barcelona until the 9th of December at the
CCCB. There are some amazing pictures reflecting many of the "hot spots" from around the world in 2009. As always this exhibition is not for the squeamish, but then they only reflect the world we live in, unfortunately.
There are sections on landscapes and nature so not all the photos are grim war zone ones. Well worth a detour or even a special trip to see.
